The closest you'll get to a traditional Aga Cooker running 100% by electricity. Designed to work in the same way as Oil and Gas models, the 13amp system uses the same cast iron conductions to move heat around the Aga Cooker - giving you lots of ambient heat, as well as the traditional cooking experience.
These systems have been around since the early 2000's. We install the 'low maintenance' and easy to use version, with no complicated circuit boards (which are notorious for crumbling under the heat).
With a single 13amp power supply and no combustion products, it's perfect for eco-conscious traditionalists.
These 13amp low maintenance systems do not require a flue, so if you have a traditional aga cooker that you are converting, you can choose to vent internally to improve the heat into the room, or utilise your existing chimney/flue to reduce food smells from the ovens. In certain circumstances, you could opt for a fan-assisted flue.
The 13amp models have a bad reputation for high running costs. Mention these models to some owners, and be prepared for a backlash! The single element system takes around 7hrs to heat the whole cooker up to temperature, and although we install additional insulation inside our models, they are expensive to run compared to our
controllable conversions.
Total Cooker Power: 11-12amps / 2.5kw
RH Hotplate: Simmering
LH Hotplate: Boiling
2 Oven Models:
Top RH Oven: Roasting
Bottom RH Oven: Simmering
3 Oven Models
Top RH Oven: Roasting
Bottom RH Oven: Simmering
Bottom LH Oven: Baking
4 Oven Models:
Top RH Oven: Roasting
Bottom RH Oven: Baking
Top LH Oven: Simmering
Bottom LH Oven: Warming
Your Aga Cooker will work from one heat source - the 13amp models use a single element. The cast iron conductions remain the same as the oil and gas models, and heat is transferred up to the boiling plate, across to the simmering plate, then down through the ovens. Further conductions move heat across from the burner to the ovens for perfect temperature regulation and heat saturation.
Most popular models of aga cooker can be supplied with the 13amp system.
The 13amp Electric System can be fitted to 2, 3 and 4 oven models.
Also, the limited edition models, such as the Classic and the Millennium edition.
Each aga cooker is different and temperatures will fluctuate but you can use the below approximations as a guide.
Remember, with traditional aga cookers, the ovens all operate at one temperature, turning the burner up will affect all of the ovens and hotplates.
The oven temperature will drop when the hotplate lids are opened and food cooked inside the ovens may affect hotplate temperature. Our controllable electric models don't have this problem.
Our Refurbished Aga Cookers all have the same dimensions, listed below.
Pre-Installation Requirements: No utilities should be located behind the Aga Cooker. Some minimum clearance gaps are required for airflow and maintenance - 10mm gap behind and 3mm each side. FireBoard behind the cooker is less of an issue due to increased insulation and decreased surface temperature, but it is still recommended. The cooker should sit on a non-combustible surface, for a thickness of at least 12mm.
This is a summary. Our unique, full pre-installation guides will be provided.
2 and 3 Oven 13amp Aga Cookers
Width: 987mm (plus 3 to 5mm gap each side)
Depth: 679mm (plus 10mm gap behind)
Height: 851mm (plus your chosen plinth height)
Traditional models have the minimum depth 670mm.
Total height for lid clearance: 1330mm (plus any plinth height).
The doors need a minimum clearance of 116mm but we recommend 150mm.
4 Oven 13amp Aga Cookers
Width: 1487mm (plus 3 to 5mm gap each side)
Depth: 679mm (plus 10mm gap behind)
Height: 851mm (plus your chosen plinth height)
Traditional models have the minimum depth 670mm.
Total height for lid clearance: 1330mm (plus any plinth height).
The doors need a minimum clearance of 116mm but we recommend 150mm.
Our plinths are made from steel. They are black in colour and available in 50-80mm high, but 60mm is the norm.
To help you decide on your Aga Range Cooker fuel type, we've listed some advantages and disadvantages to our Aga Cookers.
Advantages of 13amp Aga Cookers:
Disadvantages of 13amp Aga Cookers:
As with every Aga Cooker, each one will have its own idiosyncrasies and will run slightly different (one of the joys of individual, non-conventional cookers!). Your 13amp aga cooker will be similar, with every family having their own lifestyle and habits.
One of the main reasons stated for the argument against a 13amp over other models, is the running costs.
The 13amp aga cookers were tested, and had a weekly consumption of approximately 220kWh.
For the most efficient electric Aga Cookers, take a look at our ElectricKit or eControl systems.
Any approximations will change depending on your energy supplier and your usage of the Aga Cooker. Always try to cook more in the ovens than the hot plates to reduce heat loss (our controllable models are an exception to this).
The electric requirements for every 13amp model are the same - one single 13amp fused spur switch.
If you have a plug socket near the cooker, you can ask your electrician to swap this to a fused spur. You'll need them to check that it won't overload - which usually depends on the amount of appliances already on the same ring.
The early models of 13amp used a simple plug socket, but these tended to overheat and melt easily. For safety, we always require a single fused spur within a metre of the aga cooker, and we recommend the brand MK.
Our 13amp aga cookers have no flue requirements, as they do not have the normal products of combustion. This means that they can be located anywhere in the kitchen, room-venting in a similar way to a conventional oven.
You'll have a small vented shroud sitting at the back of the top plate, in-between your lids. A 28mm copper pipe will be hidden underneath, which brings the hot air from your ovens into the room.
There is the option to externally vent using a 28mm copper pipe through a horizontal hole in the wall behind the aga cooker.. If your range isn't located on an external wall, a fan may be required to help with extraction due to the length and bends of pipe (the fan kit comes at a higher cost and extra building works).
With the traditional 13amp 'always on' system you don't have to think about heat up times - it's always on and ready to use!
If you were to turn your 13amp system off and allow it to cool down fully, it will take around 6-7 hours to get back up to perfect operating temperature.
Our 13amp models have a slightly tweaked insulation process from when they were originally installed in the 2000's. Our models retain their heat a lot better, and therefore take a minimum of 48-72hrs to completely cool down if switched off.
We have more information on features etc, on our 13amp Summary page:
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